Ingredients
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1 stick kanten
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3 or 4 slender Asparagus
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2 to 2½ cups Basic Kelp Stock
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1½ tablespoons Mirin
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4 cups stock, preferably Basic Soy Sauce
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2 to 3 ounces boiled fresh Bamboo Shoots
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1 teaspoon Wasabi
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½ teaspoon Kona-Zanshō
Directions
When spring breezes start to blow across the Kanto plains, tender, young takénoko (bamboo shoots) appear in Tokyo markets. Specially tended forests in Kyushu and Kyoto are the source of early-to-market crops. In America, bundles of fresh asparagus appear at local farmers’ markets as winter weather dissipates. Here, I have combined the two in a savory aspic appetizer that celebrates springtime.
At elegant restaurants in Japan, this appetizer would likely be garnished with fresh ki no mé, the spicy leaves of the sanshō pepper tree, another spring delicacy that even in Japan must be purchased for a premium price at specialty shops. When found in Asian markets outside Japan, ki no mé leaves are usually very expensive. If you are looking for a less costly way to sharpen the delicate flavors of spring, you can sprinkle each serving with a pinch of kona-zanshō (dried sanshō pepper), or garnish with a dab of wasabi paste. This aspic makes a refreshing appetizer—a good match for a bone-dry saké or white wine.
Steps
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1
Done
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Soften and then dissolve the stick kanten or dissolve the powdered kanten as directed and reserve. |
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2
Done
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Break off the tough stem ends of the asparagus spears, place the ends in a small saucepan, and add the stock. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, to infuse the broth with asparagus flavor. If the boiled stem pieces are very fibrous, discard them; if not, purée them and use in a soup. Cut the asparagus spears on a slight diagonal into thin slivers, add them to the boiling stock, and blanch for about 1 minute. Drain the asparagus slivers, reserving the stock. Let the asparagus slivers cool naturally. Return the stock to the pan. |
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3
Done
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Season the asparagus-infused stock with the mirin and soy sauce and bring to a simmer. Add the bamboo shoot, cover with an otoshi-buta or circle of parchment paper, and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the bamboo shoot to cool in the stock for 5 minutes. |
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4
Done
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Drain the bamboo shoot, capturing the stock in a measuring cup. Set the bamboo shoot aside. If you have less than 1¾ cups stock, add water or more stock as needed to reach the full measure. |
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5
Done
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In a small saucepan, combine the dissolved kanten with the seasoned stock. Stir to combine and heat gently to keep the mixture liquid as you set up your molds. If you own a nagashi kan, your aspic can look exactly like the delicate squares that are pictured above. Individual portions of aspic can also be made in silicone muffin cups or in foil muffin-cup liners set in ramekins. If using silicone cups or foil liners, set them on a tray that will fit in the refrigerator. |
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6
Done
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Arrange the bamboo slices and asparagus slivers in the bottom of your molds. Pour in the warm liquid kanten mixture. If bubbles form as you pour, lance them or drag them up the sides of the mold or cup with the point of a toothpick. |
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7
Done
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Let the kanten mixture cool down and set before covering the molds with plastic wrap. Although kanten will set without refrigeration, chilling it for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours improves flavor and texture (any leftover aspic can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days). Cover the molds once the mixture has set to prevent the odors from other foods from being absorbed by the aspic. |
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8
Done
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When ready to serve, unmold. If using a nagashi kan, lift up and remove the inner tray. Spread the flanged sides of the inner tray slightly to help loosen the aspic, then slide out the block and cut as desired. If you have used the dividers, which eliminates cutting, lift them up before removing the aspics. |
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9
Done
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If using silicone muffin cups, press gently around the outer edges to release the aspics, then invert onto serving plates. If using foil liners, invert the aspics in the liners onto plates, and then peel the liners away. Garnish each aspic with a dab of wasabi or pinch of kona-zanshō. |
